Friday, 23 July 2010

Dear Readers - I had no intention of interfering in the flow of Jane's adventures, but have broken my vow of silence to extol the virtues of this - http://www.shakespeare-in-styria.eu/ - which I went to see last night. I really wasn't expecting much - living close to the RSC spoils you - but can only say I was astounded and delighted by the quality of these productions (Midsummer Night's Dream & King Lear in a double bill) and very impressed by the professionalism and enthusiasm of the production team and their myriad helpers. The whole thing was even more amazing given that most of the cast were young, inexperienced non-English native speakers and that they had come together for rehearsals only 10 days previously!

Although there was barely a weak performance amongst them, some special mentions must be made. In 'Dream' - seen first to allow the German friends accompanying me to their first live Shakespearian experience to get the feel of the language and style - we were especially impressed by Josephine Mayer (DE) playing Helena & Katharina Paul (DE) as Hermia who gave us what was the best 'girl fight' we have ever seen staged! Nikola Nastoki as Puck was superb and the Macedonian accent added to, rather than distracted from, the characterisation. But the star of the show was undoubtedly Fred Stewart (UK) as Bottom - versatile, funny and

absolutely the best expression of stunned bewilderment I have ever seen. A star in the making I feel!

Lear is obviously a very difficult kettle of fish - both to stage and to watch - especially for a mainly German-speaking audience. It was to the company's great credit, therefore, that they held us all spellbound throughout. Certainly the setting helped - Schloss Murau is beautiful and the director had used the available environment to great effect - but again some wonderful performances made the play. In particular Anna Thierney (A) as Regan, Hanna Taylor Gordon (UK) as Goneril (do not cross these ladies!) and Damien Molony(IR) as a beautifully evil Edmund. John Harwood (UK) put all his obvious experience into Lear. But the star of the show was undoubtedly Diana Kashlan (CZ) playing the dual roles of Cordelia and the Fool and managing also to do the required introductory explanation for the largely Austrian audience in flawless German. We were more than impressed! Finally we should mention here the musicians and their technicians who did a wonderful job and almost had us reaching for our umbrellas during the storm scene, despite the actual 28 degrees!

All in all a perfect afternoon/evening's entertainment - you have converted my friends to Shakespeare and given me a truly great experience and we all thank you. We will be back next year - with friends and guests in tow, we promise!

Tuesday, 20 July 2010

Chapter 2 – Back to Basics and Moving On

OK, well the website will give you details like numbers of rooms etc but more basic information is always good. Rooms are excellent, doubles are singles put together and mattresses are excellent, as is the bed-making (Pauline is Queen of The Bedchambers and does fantastic hospital corners on the (crisp cotton) sheets. Not sure how she gets those on the inside angles of the mattresses which are pushed together……but I am going to follow her round and get tips). En suites have excellent (I use the word a lot, but that is because it’s the best word to use) showers – don’t you just hate a dribbly shower?!

The Gasthof proper is one side of the road and is owned by Ros and John. Besides the 22 bedrooms on 3 floors, it has a cellar space running the length of the building with a large garage space for bikes (cycles for guests’ use are hung there as well) which leads to a guest lounge with TV, then into a laundry area with all mod cons and a separate drying area which in turn leads into space which John and Ros use to hibernate in during the winter months. This place is BIG.

The whole thing is set on a plot of land with parking space for about 8 cars or lots of bikes at the front and a grassed garden area with patio/terrace area and a washing line off to one side.

Ros and John almost didn’t view this place because the agent’s description said something along the lines of “Gasthof with possible use of kitchen over the road” and, as zou do, they had visions of crossing the road and asking a little old woman if they could make a cup of tea on her stove. Fortunately they were passing anyway so stopped off for a look.

Unsurprisingly, they not only liked it but made such a hit with the owner (Adolf) that he offered to rent them the “kitchen”. This turned out to be the whole of the ground floor of the building immediately opposite and has a large reception area with big dining/bar area and residents’ snug (for those old enough to remember such a thing or to have seen early Coronation Street with Ena, Martha and Minnie – Google it the rest of zou!) big kitchen, prep room with store room off, further prep room, freezer/storage room and two walk-in cold rooms. And a terrace along the front for those idle moments at the beginning and end of the day when you are planning the day or recovering from it.

And did I mention the stunning scenerz?!

There are two small shops in the village/hamlet and a bank with a magic money machine (ATM to younger readers). If you want to do a bit more shopping than that, Gmund is about 5 minutes by motorised transport or a 15 minute czcle ride. It’s an old medieval town (small!) with bits of the old wall leading to the local castle which looks incredibly shabby on the outside but apparently has a stunning wedding venue – there is a heart-shaped flower bed outside the castle wall and the names of the lucky couples are displayed on a large banner at the top of that on The Day. Gmünd has a chemist, doctor, couple of tourist-type shops, clothes shop, 4 small supermarkets (apparently their size throughout Austria is standardised – not come across a big one yet), a jewellery shop, couple of clothes shops and bars where you can sit out and watch the world go by. Worth a stroll around the back streets just for the buildings.

And there is no such thing as a cycle lock because no-one takes your bike if you park it up and leave it for hours. Not sure how the Austrians achieve this because, as far as I know, they don’t subscribe to chopping hands off for theft. But if they could bottle whatever it is, they would make a fortune!

If you want more shopping than Gmünd provides, then Spittal is about 30 minutes away by motorised transport and I have no intention of trying to cycle it, so no idea how long that would take. The route is very bendy and scenic and Ros says that the café outside the hotel by the central park in Spittal does some of the best cakes in Austria. Now signed off for driving there, so will investigate, purely in a spirit of scientific research, and let you know.

And moving on………didn’t tell you about the end of last week because not quite sure how it was all going to pan out. But now that I have nowt but good news to report……Mark, one of the two lads from Northern Ireland came off his bike on Friday and first news was that he had broken some vertebrae and done some ligament damage to one of his ankles. Airlifted out to the hospital at Klagenfurt and awaiting tests.

His friend Andy was, as you can imagine, a bit upset by all this but Ros and John were brilliant when he came back from the police station that afternoon. Andy was all for biking to the hospital to see Mark, but it was made very clear to him that he was going to do no such thing. Ros drove him there, sorted things out using her impeccable German, brought him back and all but tucked him into bed.

Mark was a bit out of it on morphine and flat on his back but not much in the way of prognosis at that point, although the consensus was that the ankle might be more of a problem to heal than the back. Fortunately, his parents were in Germany for a Moto GP event and were able to fly here quite easily.

Keith, our Lone Ranger, went to hospital with Andy the next day and Mark was considerably better – off the morphine and bored with staring at the ceiling, although apparently well-able to appreciate the various nursing staff’s attributes. Monday’s visit by a consultant resulted in him being allowed up, with a brace and his foot in a plaster caste.

Keith, bless his cotton socks, took Andy under his wing and they set off for the UK together – Andy having got here simply by following his best mate Mark who had the satnav, maps and knowhow! I hope Adele liked her present, Keith, and, if you are reading this, I found thimbles in Gmünd so next year you can get one of those for her, if she doesn’t come and choose her own. And if Andy’s parents are reading this, your son is a credit to you – a lovely young man, who kept his head and dealt with a tough situation with great presence of mind. I did ask him to tell you that, but I doubt if he has!

Mark and his parents arrived here yesterday to wait for Mark’s next check-up tomorrow. Mark is motoring around well on his crutches and is looking forward to getting back on his bike which Ros and John collected on their low-loader. So all’s well that ends well and Mark is one very lucky lad – and another credit to his parents.

Mike and Ali have gone off to Italy for a few days (I hope the canals are not too smelly guys!) we have been joined by Phil and Wayne and are now a small select band until the next influx.

Oh yes, and Ros had a lovely email from the Gang of Four to say they had got home safely, thanking us for a fantastic week and that brilliant though the roads and scenery in Austria were, it took a super team like ours to make a good holiday great. We love you too guys! It reminded Ros and myself so much of appreciative Warwickshire is of its employees. And Steve, just for the record, the facebook message Ros sent you was not as I worded it – she missed out “typing” – not deliberatelz I am sure.

Enough already for today. For those of you into War & Peace as a way of passing time, there will be more of this in the dazs that follow. In the meantime you will all be pleased to know that the sun is still shining like a good ‘un, the beer has not run out, John’s cooking is still in a class of its own, and all is well in this world.



PS: Almost forgot the local village fete on Sunday! Brass bands, beer tents, strong-men contests involving saws and logs, stalls selling local products, including some fabulous soaps in lovely shapes made with essential oils, home-made schnapps in beautifully packaged bottles and large flat doughnuts dusted with icing sugar and with jam spooned into the middle – made to order while you watched. Tried two just to make sure the first one was not a fluke (it wasn’t!). Then by way of working off some of that, attempted the climbing wall. Ros has a picture of that. I am saying no more except that I loathe heights and I blame it all on the samples of schnapps which were pressed upon us earlier in the proceedings.

Saturday, 17 July 2010

The Misadventures of Jane - Chapter One!

Hi all. It will not have escaped your notice that our blogging has not been very efficient lately - this having been rather a busy time for us plus lots of stuff now going onto our Facebook page - what do you mean what Facebook page??? Who of you out there has not yet signed up?? Good news though - we have a willing(?) volunteer! Our friend Jane - here for a working holiday - has agreed somewhat daringly to write about her adventures in weekly chunks and here comes Part 1. We have made no editorial changes (which hopefully we won't come to regret!) but will try and add some appropriate photos as we go along.

The blog is entitled 'The Misadventures of Jane' - it somehow seemed appropriate but to those of you who are old enough to recognise the reference, tell the younger ones you heard it from your grandparents, and if you are to young to understand - just don't ask us!

THE MISADVENTURES OF JANE
Chapter 1 – Work But Not As You Know It

Ros suggested I keep a blog of mz work experience – which is going to include relearning to touch type using a German keyboard – the z and y keys are reversed which, for a touch-tzpist like wot I woy before I came here, is extraordinarily difficult. The eagle-eyed amongst you will spot that I am working on that, rather than cheating and changing the keyboard settings before I start (but thank zou for the suggestion Chris!).

Arrived last Saturday afternoon, Ros collected me from the airport at Klagenfurt and explained that I would not be starting work until Monday – just settle in and nose around finding out where things were on Sunday. Yeah, right. Got to Malta about 1800 and by 1830 was serving, washing up and generally mucking-in. As learning curves go it was fun.


This place is spectacular, no other word for it. Mountains everywhere you turn, it’s picture postcard heaven. My room has a view down the valley which has to be seen to be believed. And I have my own personal alarm clock right next door in the shape of a very pretty church. The bells are electronic now and, for some wholly unknown reason, chime 60 times at 0600 – no snooze alarm, you just have to wait for it to finish. But I have got so used to it that I don’t hear them anzmore.


John took me halfway up a mountain on my day off (another concept which is not As You Know It……….) and left me there with a map, a compass, a gizmo which has GPS but proved to be wholly beyond my technical capabilities despite the operating booklet (why are they always written by someone who assumes a level of competence which lots of us do not have?), so I kept things

very simple and walked up some more of the mountain and then back down to my starting point. Knees also had something to do with that – like lots of other bits of me, they don’t work quite as well as they used to).

However, I did learn from the booklet that the gizmo has a kezboard if zou can find it and I think, as well as tracking your trip, giving you average speed of movement and all sorts of other interesting information, it allows you to write interesting things about the route as you go. Now, for those of us who still vote Luddite Tendencies, I have a question: why would anyone want to spend time on a walk with fabulous views peering at a very small screen and trying to use even smaller keys to tap in all the things you are missing by………..peering etc).

John didn’t know you could do this, fortunately, or doubtless I would have been doing that instead of just ambling up the hill, admiring the horny-handed sons of the soil (grandpa, dad and son – and grandma) who were using large scythes to cut what I gather is the second crop of hay this year. And the butterflies, wildflowers and did I mention the views and the fantastic sunshine?!

John collected me and then what was undoubtedly the highlight of my week took place. We had several groups of bikers staying here and one of the Gang of Four took me for a ride on his BMW. I am in love! Fantastic ride and thank you Steve for a wonderful memory. You and the rest of the Gang of Four will be a very hard act to follow in the coming weeks.



Thursday I went off for a cycle ride but missed the (according to John) very easz to find cycle route to the Gossfalle and found mzself meandering up and down rather more than I was expecting when I set off but as I was going in the right direction it wasn’t a problem and (have I mentioned this before?) the scenery and views are spectacular. Got to my destination 50 minutes later (took 5 in the car when Ros was showing me around) but as I was the only one there, I didn’t actually throw mzself in the pool at the bottom of the waterfall because getting out would have required clambering over a lot of slippery rocks – those who know and love me will be surprised to hear that I used that much discretion! Beautiful spot though, with a walk around it and lots of “thinking spaces” with benches, none of which have ever seen a vandal in their lives.

Paddled for a bit, got my feet and legs nice and cold and then went back via the main road. This country is very cycle-friendly – everyone overtakes you on the other carriageway rather than trying to clip your handlebars in passing without actually knocking you off the bike. There is also no road rage at all as far as I can see – everyone travels sedately and even those who have been following me on my “L” trips with Ros don’t seem overly concerned about my very slow pace. Mind you, the roads do wind a lot and are frequently bordered by drops into water on one side and sheer rock face on the other. And did I mention the scenery?!

Had mz first staff meeting this morning - a very lively affair in which I took very little part, but there was coffee and exceptionally good chocolate cake! The country is awash with exceptionally good cake of various sorts. Apparently Ros and John had agreed to host a German walking association's 100 anniversary celebrations next Sunday - there will be about 100 people coming to the Hutte at the car park where John dropped me off for my hill walking expedition the other day. A knees-up there on Saturdaz night and then down to us for lunch on Sunday.

The local bank manager's father in law dropped in for a drink last night about 0015 (which will teach us to stay outside drinking till all hours) and casually asked Ros what she was doing about music. News to Ros, although FIL who plays in a local brass band, offered to put her in touch with the band's reserve team. We will be all ledderhosen and accordions bz the sound of it. And run off our feet. But how much fun will it be?! Lots!

Enough alreadz for this week. For those who have got this far, thank you for reading it – for those who have never been here COME! It is the most amazing holiday destination and Ros and John run a fantastic operation – it would be impossible to get anything more guest-friendly. And John is not a bad little chef (sorry John, I meant excellent……….put that knife down…….), it’s pretty much all cooked from scratch and to order – a short and simple menu each day using fresh produce and all done simply and very well.

I hope your coming week is as good as mine will be……….watch this space.